Paddling Through Ninh Binh's Limestone Landscape
Nestled among limestone karsts, Ninh Binh has been rising as a picturesque landscape scene for adventurers. While the world sees Ha Long Bay through its emerald waters and as the gem of Vietnam, I decided to step into what I would now call nature’s quiet symphony. As someone who loves floating along a river, listening to the gentle lapping of water against the boat, Ninh Binh was truly an adventure I do not want to forget.
Ninh Binh presents a variety of unique boating experiences across three scenic locations, and in true explorer fashion, I made it a point to navigate all of them: Van Long, Trang An, and Tam Coc. It is normal to prefer one experience over the other, especially after reading the numerous reviews online, so I made the decision to take on each experience with an open mind and a curious heart.
Hi! I’m Kiki, a California native, who left my career in corporate finance to become a world traveler.
Van Long
My first stop was the Van Long Nature Reserve, a haven of tranquillity and biodiversity. Arriving in the evening added a mystical quality to the experience. As the sun set behind the jagged limestone peaks, the wetlands came alive with the calls of birds and the hum of nature.
Known as the largest wetland reserve in the northern delta, Van Long is a bird-watcher’s paradise. I had the chance to spot the elegant Asian openbill, gracefully foraging in the shallow waters. For wildlife photographers, this is a golden opportunity to capture not only the openbill but also the rare Delacour’s langur, an endangered primate that calls these karsts home.
The boat ride here was remarkably serene. My guide paddled quietly, using a single oar at the back of the wooden boat, leaving me free to marvel at the glass-like reflections of the limestone karsts in the water. The caves at Van Long are understated compared to those at Trang An or Tam Coc, but they are no less captivating. As we floated through the Dark Cave, the air felt cool, damp, and ancient, as though the rocks themselves were whispering tales from centuries past.
Trang An
To avoid the crowds, I began my second day early at the Trang An Landscape Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a shining gem of Ninh Binh. Trang An felt like stepping into a movie scene, and for good reason—it served as a filming location for Kong: Skull Island.
The boat ride through Trang An is an immersive journey, taking about 3.5 hours. What sets it apart is the sheer variety of the experience. The route weaves through numerous caves, some so narrow that I had to duck to avoid the jagged stalactites. I lost count of how many times I marvelled at the skill of the boatwoman, effortlessly navigating these tight spaces.
The caves here are a mix of natural formations and partially artificial extensions, adding an intriguing human touch to the ancient landscape. Highlights included Sang Cave and Toi Cave, where the interplay of light and shadow creates an almost ethereal atmosphere.
Beyond the caves, Trang An’s boat tours also include stops at hidden temples nestled into the limestone cliffs. One such stop was at Trinh Temple, where I learned about its spiritual significance and took a moment to absorb the peaceful surroundings. The journey felt less like a tourist activity and more like a pilgrimage through time.
Tam Coc
On my final day in Ninh Binh, I ventured to Tam Coc Bich Dong, often called the “Ha Long Bay on land.” Tam Coc translates to “Three Caves,” referring to the Hang Ca, Hang Hai, and Hang Ba caves, which you explore during the 2.5-hour boat trip.
Unlike the stillness of Van Long and the grandeur of Trang An, Tam Coc had an enchanting liveliness to it. As the boat glided along the Ngo Dong River, I was surrounded by vibrant rice fields. During the rice season (late April to June), the fields transform into a golden sea, contrasting beautifully with the limestone cliffs. Although I visited outside of peak season, the green hues were no less stunning.
The highlight of the trip was passing through the three caves. Each cave felt like a secret portal, dark and mysterious yet filled with the echoes of paddles against water. Hang Ca, the longest and most dramatic of the three, left me in awe of its vast, cathedral-like interior.
One unique feature of Tam Coc is the rowers. Many of them use their feet to paddle, a skill that left me both amused and impressed. Their rhythm, paired with the gentle flow of the river, created a meditative experience.
For those seeking adventure beyond the boat, Tam Coc is also home to the Bich Dong Pagoda, a three-tiered temple complex built into the mountainside. A short climb rewards visitors with panoramic views of the surrounding karsts and rice fields—a fitting end to the Ninh Binh journey.
A Comparison of Ninh Binh's Boating Gems
Each of these three locations offers something unique, catering to different types of travelers:
Van Long is perfect for those seeking solitude and a closer connection to nature. The absence of motorboats enhances the tranquillity, making it ideal for bird-watchers and photographers.
Trang An provides a more comprehensive and adventurous experience, combining caves, temples, and history. It’s the best choice for those wanting a deeper dive into Vietnam’s cultural and natural heritage.
Tam Coc captures the quintessential charm of Ninh Binh, especially during rice season. Its lively atmosphere and scenic beauty make it a favourite for families and first-time visitors.
Reflections
As my time in Ninh Binh came to a close, I found myself reflecting on the unique essence of each location. Van Long’s serene waters, Trang An’s epic landscapes, and Tam Coc’s vibrant charm came together to form a harmonious symphony of experiences.
For anyone looking to escape the hustle of modern life and immerse themselves in a world where time flows as gently as the rivers, Ninh Binh offers an unparalleled retreat. Each paddle stroke reveals a story, each cave a mystery, and each karst a monument to nature’s artistry.
So, if you find yourself yearning for a quiet adventure, grab your hat, sunscreen, and curiosity, and let Ninh Binh’s limestone landscapes lead you on a journey you won’t soon forget.
📍 Location: Northern Vietnam, nestled in the Red River Delta, just 90 km south of Hanoi.
✈️ How to Reach Ninh Binh:
- By Air: The nearest airport is Noi Bai International Airport in Hanoi. From there, take a private transfer or bus to Ninh Binh (approximately 2 hours).
- By Train: Regular trains connect Hanoi to Ninh Binh Railway Station, offering a scenic and comfortable journey through Vietnam’s countryside.
- By Bus: Direct buses run from Hanoi and nearby provinces to Ninh Binh. Look for services departing from Giap Bat or My Dinh bus stations in Hanoi.
- By Car/Motorbike: A private car or motorbike offers flexibility, allowing you to explore scenic stops en route, such as Cuc Phuong National Park.
🕒 Best Time to Visit:
- April to June: Perfect for capturing the lush green landscapes and rice paddies in full bloom.
- September to November: Cooler weather and post-harvest fields create picturesque views.
- Late January to March: Ideal for a peaceful visit, with blooming flowers and cooler temperatures.
🌧️ Low Season:
- July to August: Expect fewer crowds but prepare for occasional rain and high humidity.
⏳ Ideal Stay:
2-3 days are sufficient to explore Ninh Binh’s highlights, including Van Long, Trang An, and Tam Coc. Extend your stay to 4-5 days for leisurely exploration and nearby attractions like Hoa Lu Ancient Capital or Bai Dinh Pagoda.
📸 Hidden Gems for Photographers:
- Van Long Nature Reserve: Known as the “Bay without Waves,” this serene wetland area offers glass-like reflections of limestone karsts and abundant wildlife, perfect for sunrise shots.
- Trang An Scenic Landscape Complex: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Trang An’s labyrinth of waterways, caves, and towering karsts is a paradise for drone and boat photographers.
- Tam Coc (“Three Caves”): Capture breathtaking views of rice paddies flanked by limestone cliffs while gliding along the Ngo Dong River.
- Mua Cave Viewpoint: For a panoramic vista of the Tam Coc region, hike to the top of Mua Cave and photograph the stunning valley below.
- Thung Nham Bird Garden: This tranquil haven is home to vibrant bird species, lotus ponds, and lush greenery.
🦢 Wildlife Encounters:
Van Long Nature Reserve is a hotspot for birdwatchers and home to the endangered Delacour’s langur. Early morning boat rides offer the best chance to spot wildlife in their natural habitat.
👟 Pro Travel Tips:
- Wear comfortable, non-slip shoes for hiking trails and boat rides.
- Bring a hat, sunscreen, and insect repellent, especially during summer.
- For boat rides, morning and late afternoon provide the best lighting and cooler temperatures.
- Pack small bills for boat tips and local market purchases.
- Avoid weekends and holidays to enjoy a more tranquil experience.
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